Introducing Sugar and Western-Style Treats to Japan
Chinese traders introduced cane sugar in Japan during the 8th Century (“The World of Sugar” 2). Prior to that, the Japanese used alternative products as sweeteners, such as honey, so, gluten, and amazura, while traditional kasha and okashi ‘sweets’ consisted largely of fruits and nuts (Ashkenazi and Jacob 107).
Even once sugar arrived in Japan, its high price constrained its usage among much of the population. As an expensive luxury, the Japanese typically limited its use to medicinal purposes and religious offerings (“The World of Sugar” 2). As trade with other Asian nations increased, sugar gradually became more affordable and upper-class individuals began to use sugar in food preparation.
In particular, sugar became popular in the production of wagashi, sweet treats served during the tea ceremonies of the aristocracy. Eventually, these tea ceremonies became a means through which samurai could express their taste and refinement during the Edo period. Serving well-crafted, delectable confectionaries provided samurai with the chance to “illustrate [their] knowledge and reflect [their] dignity” (Nakayama vi), character attributes fundamental to their samurai designation and status. Requiring costly sugar as an ingredient and necessitating a considerable amount of culinary skill to prepare properly, consumption of these delicacies was limited to the wealthy. In fact, some types of wagashi were even dubbed ‘jogashi’ -literally upper-class confections (Nakayama ii), reflecting their exclusivity.
The arrival of the Portuguese in 1543 (“Japan: Memories of a Secret Empire 1500-1599”) further advanced the popularity of sugary treats among the upper class. Ushering in the era of Nanban (Southern-barbarian) trade, the Portuguese-Japanese exchange lasted for nearly a century and resulted in the growth of the city of Nagasaki (Newson) and the exchange of goods and ideas. Notable contributions included Western clothing and the musket, which would transform Japanese warfare (Vaporis 103). During their stay, the Portuguese also influenced Japanese culinary practice, inspiring dishes that are now staples of Japanese diet such as tempura (battered deep-fried seafood) (Morieda).
In addition to savory tempura, the Portuguese shifted Japanese attention towards sweeter foods. For example, castella, a sponge cake made using sugar as a primary ingredient, came to be one of Nagasaki’s signature fares, with modified versions of the dessert still popular there today (“Food Culture”). Likewise, small hard sugar candies (named konpeito after the Portuguese word for the treat confeito (“The World of Sugar” 2)(Vaporis 104)) have become such a mainstay of Japanese culture that they are the traditional gift given to visitors of the imperial house (Spacey). Supposedly Konpeito’s relationship with the powerful began when Portuguese missionary Luís Fróis exploited daimyo Oda Nobunaga’s soft spot for them for diplomatic purposes- giving the treat to him in the hopes of winning his favor (Spacey).
Thus, foreign influence played an integral part in the consumption of sugar among individuals of the upper classes. Portuguese influence redefined these tastes, resulting in Portuguese-Japanese fusion cuisine. As a luxury good with a distinctive flavor, sugar rapidly became an enjoyable sign of wealth and symbol of cultural exchange. Yet, indulgence in sugar and sugar-based products remained an extravagance only for the wealthy and powerful; ordinary people in Japan would not be able to savor the sweet flavor of sugar until trade and domestic production increased.
Sources
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Morieda, Takashi. "Tracking Down Tempura." Food Forum. Kikkoman Corporation, n.d. Web. 17 Nov. 2014.
Nakayama, Keiko. Edo Jidai No Wagashi Dezain = Edo Period Japanese Confection Designs. Tōkyō: Popurasha, 2011. Print.
Newson, Linda. "Portuguese Colonial Cities in the Early Modern World - Edited by Brockey, Liam M." Bulletin of Latin American Research 30.3 (2011): 398-99. Web.
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