Boom of the Silk Industry

By Cindy Okamoto: During the late 19^th century, Japan experienced a boom in its silk industry. Western countries demanded Japan’s raw silk to such a great degree that it became Japan’s most valuable export, aiding to its modernization during the Meiji Regime.[1] In Francis Brinkley’s hand tinted photograph (c. 1897-1898), “Spinning Silk from Cocoons”, gives the viewers a behind-the-scenes glimpse of how silk in Japan was produced. Understanding the time period a few decades earlier will give the onlooker some context to truly make sense of Brinkley’s photograph.           

Commodore Perry’s arrival in Japan first in 1853 and then again in 1854 for the signing of the Treaty of Kanagawa played a key role in taking Japan’s silk market internationally. As Japan began opening its ports to more western countries, the demand for Japan’s raw silk by western countries greatly increased.[2] In 1855, French silkworm nurseries became infested with disease and eventually spread to all of Europe’s silk producing industries.[3] In addition, China at the same time period was experiencing the Taiping Rebellion (1850-1864) in which the sericulture regions were greatly damaged.[4] Thus, at this time Japan had hardly any competition in the silk markets and profited tremendously.

In directing attention back to the photograph, we notice that Brinkley’s photograph focuses on three subjects, two younger looking women in the front and an older woman in the background. Each woman’s clothing is hand colored in a different color: green, blue, and red. Besides the coloring on the clothes, a few buckets and what appears to be a bamboo shoot is also colored green in the foreground. All three women are sitting at their designated station, busily working away.

Taking notice of the English written caption at the bottom reading, “Spinning Silk From The Cocoons” we can assume that this photograph was intended for a Western audience. This photograph is suppose to be a lens in which the distant western countries can see how their valuable silk is made; however, this photograph is anything but shocking. I say it is not shocking because this is what westerners expect to see. This photograph sheds light not only on the current society and culture of Japan, but it also implies a great deal about the person behind the lens. I would argue that the photographer (who is unknown) captured this photo from a Westernized perspective for a Western audience. This is how Westerners imagine silk in Japan is produced. But how realistic is this image? There is neither factories, nor use of modern technology in this scene. There are also no men in this image. This image is reflecting the idea that in Japanese society, this type of work is for women only. Thus, how reflective is this photograph in portraying the production of silk? Also, are the working conditions as represented in this image accurate? For the high demand of silk that there is in the late 19^th century, I would imagine that there would be more people in the silk spinning service. Undeniably, there are many questions that this image raises, but is also telling of how the Western world perceived Japan at this time.